Washington D.C. - Dayton, Ohio
700 Miles | 9 Days
Self Supported & Sleeping Outside
Via C&O towpath, GAP trail, OTET
Commute: Overnight Train Ride and Waiting for Friends to Rendezvous in our Nation’s Capital
Chicago - Washington D.C.
Thursday September 14th and Friday September 15th, 2023
I purchased a roll on bike ticket and rode the Amtrak from Chicago to D.C. The train departed on Thursday at 6:00pm from the Union Station terminal and arrived in D.C. just west of the White House at about 2:00pm on Friday. The train was very comfortable but many of the power outlets did not work, there was no wifi and the food car was more of a snack car than anything. I came prepared with a couple of meals and snacks and took the opportunity to stay off my phone as much as possible.
The train crosses Northern Indiana and Ohio with major stops in South Bend, Toledo and Cleveland before turning Southeast toward Pittsburgh and then closely following the GAP trail to Cumberland, Maryland. At Cumberland the train loosely follows the Potomac to D.C. I recorded the train ride here.
I got off the train and rode the National Mall down to the Lincoln memorial and across the Potomac into Arlington and then down to the hotel in Crystal City. After getting checked in and cleaned up, I went down to an Italian restaurant where bottles are half price until 6pm, Portofino, and walked back to the Hotel. I had a spurt of energy from anticipating the rest of the crew arriving and decided to ride over to the river again and tour the monuments and the ‘Exorcist’ steps in Georgetown.
The crew rolled in right after midnight and we goofed around before crashing for the night. Callie and Eric in a bed, Me and Evan in a bed and Jeremy on the floor
Day 1: A Beautiful Day on the C&O Towpath after trespassing and loitering in our Nation’s Capital
Crystal City to Lock 34
72 miles Day 1 Planned Route
Saturday September 16th
Started the day out meeting Eric at the rental car drop off and heading over to the infamous Dischord Records house from the cover of Minor Threat’s Salad Days E.P.. Eric, Jeremy, Evan and Callie opened the fence and I took a picture of them on the stoop. Before leaving Eric and Jeremy touched the door. We headed down the hill to cross the Potomac and made our way to Watergate 0 for obligatory photos and then back on the bike path to the origin of the C&O towpath trail. After a short stint on the trail we broke off to climb up into Georgetown to check out The Exorcist House. Everyone was completely underwhelmed by this detour and I have to say it was admittedly more creepy at night. We went down the hill to get back on the towpath but got a little turned around getting down to the actual path.
Once on the towpath we quickly rode away from the city and synced into a nice pace. A ways down the trail I stopped, thinking something had fallen from my rig, while the rest of the crew rolled on. I took off again and as the C&O towpath merged away from the Capital Crescent Trail I stayed on the later thinking the two trails would intersect again. I was wrong and ended up 50 ft above it when crossing the towpath. I thought I would be smart and look at the map for a path to reconnect the two different trails to avoid having to doubleback. I saw something that looked promising so I carried onward. After surely missing the shortcut I stopped again, checked the map and turned around to try to find it. I found it but it turned out to be a jagged narrow footpath wiggling through a mess of boulders impassable on my road bike. I dismounted and walked it down the path to a bridge that crossed back over the canal and connected me back onto the towpath. After a little while I rode up on the whole crew waiting on me.
There was a little detour up to MacArther Blvd around some construction on the towpath. It was all blocked off from traffic but for some reason they decided to use a mulch as the temporary path which slowed us down to a grind. Thankfully the detour was short and we were quickly back to a nice clip.
At this point with all the messing around in our nation’s capital that morning and now these detours I was determined to stay on the bike for as much of the rest of the day as possible. I peddled forward having a bar and some gummies for lunch. That brought me into Harper’s Ferry first and I scaled the steps up to the pedestrian bridge with my bike and walked it through a herd of Saturday afternoon tourists visiting the town. Once over the bridge I locked up right across from the Almost Heaven Pub & Grill for dinner. Evan and Jeremy eventually made it over the bridge and joined me for dinner while Calllie and Eric pressed onto the campsite.
After dinner we took the bikes back over the Potomac to the towpath and headed down to Huckleberry Hill Hiker Biker Campsite. After only about a mile or two we came upon Callie and Eric’s Hammocks and quickly dismounted to set up our shelters. I set mine up on the old lock across the path from the river. There was no water in the canal there and you could easily cross back and forth to the path. There was a great little beach gentle enough for us to easily walk into the Potomac. The water was so refreshing so we all swam and bathed and layed around while the sun set over the trees.
After putting on my camp clothes. I decided we had to make a fire because the entire site was littered with fallen branches, leaves and twigs. I was surprised to see no fire ring and then I noticed that there wasn't even a picnic table or a pit toilet like you find at most of the hiker-biker sites along the towpath. I brought it up to the group but all of us were a little tired and very satisfied with our accommodations. I pulled a bunch of fuel over to a drain below the path and built a fire against the rock wall of the drain to hide the flames from the towpath and road behind. We sat around the fire and poked fun at each other for a while. A couple of bikers rode by in the dark and turned back and forth passing us three times. On their third pass one stopped to ask if we were at the Huckleberry Hill campsite to which we responded yes. She was skeptical so she and the other rider said they would ride down a bit to see if there was another camp close by but to save them a place if they returned. They did not. A little later I was walking around and my head lamp lit up a sign. It was a tent with a line through it smack dab right in front of Evan’s tent. Turns out we actually were all set up at C&O Canal Lock 34 and not where we intended on camping at the Huckleberry Hill Hiker Biker Campsite. Nevertheless we had the entire place to ourselves and the beach was a special bonus.
Day 2 - Eminent Rain, Hypothermia & Camp Crashing Weirdos vs. A Dry Shelter, A Laundromat, A Grocery Store & Five Dummies
Lock 34 to Hancock Maryland
62 miles Day 2 Planned Route
Sunday September 17th
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Even before leaving our Nation’s Capital we all knew rain was in the forecast for Sunday. After coffee, giggling at the no camping sign right in front of Evan’s tent, a quick breakfast and packing up, it began to drizzle right as we took off. We all dressed for the day accordingly. I decided to go sockless. After a few miles we rode by the Huckleberry Hill Hiker Biker Campsite and scoffed at how much better our camp was.
All morning there was intermittent light rain while the five of us leapfrogged all the way down the path until we were across from Shepherdstown, West Virginia. We ascended a steep road up to the bridge and crossed over into town. It started pouring rain as we headed into town. We turned down German St. where there was a concentration of restaurants. Eric stopped to ask a local where to eat. They pointed out the MJ's on German DeliCafe so we piled our bikes up against a tree out front and filed in. It was a small place and the 5 of us took up much of the seating. Breakfast was above average and cooked by one of the owners. We finished up and rode back out of town in the pouring rain. Eric pointed out a bike ramp off the bridge so we followed that back down to the towpath and got back into a pace line.
I remember riding with Jeremy most of the rest of the day. Our next stop was in Williamsport where we cleaned off our legs and refilled our water bottles. When we stopped I began to think about dinner. I had been wanting to check out Jimmy Joy's Log Cabin Inn right outside Hancock ever since I saw it on the map years ago. During one of our stops I texted the group about dinner and figured out the route we would need to take. Jeremy and I took the detour off the towpath into Ernstville right after Big Pool and then onto the Western Maryland Rail Trail. It was paved which let us pick up the pace a bit but it was colder and still raining when Jeremy’s hypothermia started to kick in. Right before Little Pool we scrambled up a little hill path into a park and crossed under I-70. Jimmy Joy’s was about 1 mile down the road. We parked and locked the bikes together and waited in line to get in the door. There were a couple spots at the bar for our soaking butts. Jeremy thought the place was too fancy for spandex and stinky shirts but I stuck to my guns. Baltimore was playing the Cincinnati Bengals on the bar TV. Jeremy was answering questions I had about the game while he chatted his teeth and shivered away his hypothermia while trying to be quiet enough to not tip anyone off that we were from Ohio. After we ordered, I instantly regretted my order when I saw the tablecloth get laid out for the Maryland blue crab boil across the bar from us for a diner that knew what they were doing. My meal was some sort of baked fish in buttery mashed potatoes and Jeremy ordered fish and chips.
Dinner was decent but I think we both agreed it was not worth the detour. I remember it was there when one of us mentioned finding a shelter to sleep under for the night. Jeremy had the shelter picked out on GoogleMaps faster than I have ever seen him do anything.
We had to double back the mile we traveled to Jimmy Joy’s. I realized after checking the map that the only way to Hancock by would force us to merge onto I-70 for a stint. We passed a box turtle on the way back to the Western Maryland Trail. As we pulled into Hancock we found the shelter and made the choice to stay and camp there for the evening regardless if it was permitted. Eric, Callie and Evan had stopped at Fort Frederick State Park just before Big Pool so they were a while behind. There was a set of toilets next to the shelters with hand dryers and sinks which we used to get clean and dry off. Jeremy found a laundromat across the street and left me at the shelter to watch over everything when the inevitable camp crashing weirdos showed up.
First, it was the old guy who decided to sit in the shelter and read from a gigantic binder full of loose leaf pages. There is a little parking lot next to the bathrooms. His truck and another car were parked when we arrived at the shelter so it was really awkward when as soon as Jeremy left, this old guy got out of his truck and walked over to the shelter to plop down, barely acknowledging my presence and all of our gear spread around. Real ‘rest stop’ vibes confirmed by him returning to his truck, leaving the parking lot, returning 5 minutes later, idling for a while, leaving, returning, idling and then driving away when Jeremy came back. The other weirdos were just some kids that returned to their car while the old man was creeping in the shelter. They were the ones that actually started the parking lot routine of coming and going. The traffic was suspicious and unsettling so I kept my eyes on both vehicles. After several trips leaving and returning, the girl and boy that had passed by the shelter earlier finally emerged with a friend and a longboard to head up the path. I know we were in a populated area but I am going into a lot of detail here because my gut told me something was up and regardless of whether there was any threat it is better to follow your intuition by being on guard or at least annoyed by camp crashers. A camp with an annoying invader can sometimes be worse than sleeping in the rain. Case in point, later on in ride one of us came across a story “On the morning of September 4, 2023 (Labor Day) at approximately 2 a.m., Washington County, Md., 911 received a report of an active disturbance with shots fired at the Leopards Mill and White Rock hiker-biker campsites west of Hancock, Md., in C&O Canal NHP. After an initial response by the Washington County Sheriff’s Office, the case was transferred to National Park Service (NPS) Rangers.
The investigation revealed that an off-road utility vehicle (UTV) was illegally driven on the C&O Canal towpath and on the trail to the hiker-biker campsites. Multiple individuals on the UTV caused a disturbance at the campsites, threatened multiple campers, and discharged a firearm with shots hitting a park sign.” - Level Walker - Information for Level Walker Volunteers on the C&O Canal. Our plan that day was to stay at the White Rock hiker-biker campsite that evening and although the shooting had happened 2 weeks before it could have just as well happened any other time. People do weird shit out there and when you are exposed it makes you that much more vulnerable.
Evan, Eric and Callie pulled in and agreed that the shelter was a great move for the evening. Callie Googled it and found out that we were actually at a campsite so we really didn’t have to worry about getting kicked out. We all used the laundromat to dry everything out and the grocery store before going to sleep; Myself, Even and Jeremy in our tents on the concrete floor of our dry shelter while Eric and Callie were hanging from the rafters above.
Day 3 - Technical Riding, Elevation and an Evening Rain vs. a Bike Shower, Historical Hotdogs, Extraterrestrial Activity and a Pizza Delivery
Hancock, Maryland to Chuck’s Place just before Frostburg
72 miles Day 3 Planned Route
Monday September 18th
Rain persisted through the night but stopped that morning as the sun broke through a cloudy sky. After breakfast, coffee, and packing up we set off on a soaking wet path much worse than the hard, mostly smooth surface we rode the day before. The route out of Hancock becomes progressively more potholed as you move toward Cumberland. It’s a double track obviously used by trucks which is probably the reason for its rutted condition. This day it was a goddamn muddy mess of a mule path and all of us were ready to stop strangling our handlebars to make it through the shit.
After leapfrogging each other we all met at the entrance of Paw Paw tunnel. The tunnel was cool as ever and I realized I forgot to get my light out before entering. It is elusively long and looks like the light from either end will be enough to illuminate your way through but that is an illusion. Thankfully Evan was right behind me and his dyno setup lit my way enough to make it through without dismounting.
After the tunnel we pulled off to the path to eat lunch at some picnic benches. I Guess it is worth mentioning this is where I pulled out my camp socks to dry and left them laying in the sun on a guard rail. Always pay attention to what is being said around you. When you are tired you can easily get ‘tunnel brain’ and in this case I missed Callie asking who’s socks they were. This is another important lesson in bike touring. Always do a once over of the area and your belongings before moving onto the next destination. I will get more into that later on in the ride.
After lunch we got back into a pace line and slowly broke up into groups or single riders. The puddled and rutted double track made it difficult to ride close together without risking a crash or taking a muddy tire spray in the face. I had chosen to go sockless again that day because I knew our shoes were getting soaked again. My middle toe on the right foot began having a painful cramp which was definately caused by my choice. Best thing to do in that case is think about something else like a reward at the end of the day. I rode through it with one thing in mind, the garden hose at the Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Cumberland. It’s all about the little things and one special thing I love about arriving in Cumberland is this hose and the concrete pad that it sits on. It’s obviously there to spray off bikes and it’s free! And let me tell you something! After a hard day's riding through the muck we had just traversed, this simple pleasure is a welcome reset.
While taking turns cleaning off the bikes and legs, food became the next priority so I came up with a list of possible restaurants. Turns out a lot is closed on Monday in Cumberland so the list was short and after running it by the group Eric chose Curtis Famous Weiners over Baltimore Street Grill. I'll be honest that a hotdog, (I had never tried before), sounded like the move here so I used the force and influenced Eric’s mind to choose the Coney stand. Hotdogs make me feel good. I am fascinated with the food and they actually do make me feel good. I love all the different iterations of local ingredients, the national sentiment and cultural significance. I think the Dayton Velo crew may have some knowledge of my fascination so I had to manipulate Eric’s mind to make the choice for the group so it wouldn't be coming from me. That way, if they sucked, It would be Eric’s fault.
We headed over to the bike shop because I wanted to get some trail stickers for my Nalgene. And let's be real, there was a bike shop that was open, so we had to go in. I had been to the shop every trip through Cumberland but this time the man behind the counter was extra cool. I found out Mustapha was the new owner and he was just a delight to interact with. The shop looked mostly the same but definitely had a new vibe and excellent music!
Then we met Curtis and his Coney Dog. The place has a window installed during Covid which is where you place your order. If you need to use the bathroom they will let you in during low contagious times. The counter person took our order one by one through the window and the small team began to prepare the food. There was a sidewalk sign in front of the place. On the sign was a black and white picture of a man in an apron over an ACDC shirt with one arm extended across the bottom of the sign with his palm up. On his arm was a row of 8 Coney dogs. I looked into the restaurant and realized that it was probably Curtis making our order. Sure enough once the order was passed through the window and paid for Curtis came outside and sat right down next to us. I think he is used to biker gangs coming though revving their engines for him but today we would suffice as there wasn't a motorcycle in sight. Eric and Callie are covered in tattoos but Curtis was a gentleman and never even mentioned either of their ink. He is also covered in tattoos including an ACDC logo.
After devouring 3 Coneys, a fry and a Coke I asked him about the sauce. Curtis’s family, (Greek-Italian) immigrated to Cumberland in the early 1900’s and the Coney Island Restaurant was opened in 1918. The current sauce is his recipe and he makes it every day. “I’m a grinder, that's what they call me because I work 16 hours a day. Everyday… I make the sauce every morning and it’s still dark when I'm done”. Curtis showed me the inside of the restaurant. The walls are covered in memorabilia and some of the furniture is over a century old. We walked around the outside where he showed off an alleyway that he had converted into a covered patio sturdy enough for a snowy winter. I would eat a hotdog there in January. Curtis is a biker and proud to tell me about all the motorcycle gangs that drive to his place and how loud the ruckus is when they leave.
The food was great. Seeming nothing special at first glance until you notice the sauce. It’s a dryer chunky Coney Chili that paired perfectly with the snappy little sausage. It’s a small dog with a soft plain bun. The frys were perfectly cooked, crinkle cut if I remember correctly. One of the best parts about the Coney Island stand is that it predates the Cola Wars. Yes, Curtis proudly sells both Pepsi and Coke on his soda fountain! “Pepsi tried to get me to be exclusive with them so I just get their bags and run right through my Coke machine. Fuck ‘Em!” It could have been placebo from his story and the nostalgia of the place but there was something very vintage about the taste of the soda from Curtis’s Coke machine. Curtis Famous Weiners will be a must stop for me and I look forward to trading rust belt stories with the guy again.
I was finishing up with Curtis as the crew rolled out. I took off to catch up with them. As soon as I got to the fountain where the GAP trail and C&O towpath meet I realized my chain needed some lube after being cleaned off. I called Eric because I knew he had a full bottle of chain lube. He set it next to a fence post on the trailside under a sign and texted me the picture of the location. Only a mile or so ahead I found the sign and lubed my chain. I continued up the accent. Leaving Cumberland you ascend the GAP 24+ miles up a 1-3% grade past the Eastern Continental Divide and into Deal, PA.
Our plan was to crash at a guy's house 10 miles up the trail just before Frostburg that we had met last year on the Katy Trail in Missouri. Chuck was running a cycling tour for one of those companies you can hire to sag you around from hotel to hotel as you ride the path. We were leap frogging him all day one day and he began sharing their snacks with us. We got to know his story and talked about the C&O and GAP. He told us he had just purchased some land right along the GAP just outside of Frostburg. He gave us his number and said we could camp there even if he wasn't around so I made a point to incorporate his generosity into our itinerary.
I eventually caught up to Evan and we pulled off to take a break at an overlook. My toe was killing me with very sharp pains since we began the incline so I massaged it for a while and we got back on our bikes. At the overlook we noticed huge dark clouds headed in our direction. We were both exhausted so we did the best we could to stay together. As soon as the first drops hit us I let out some obscenities and I got a chuckle out of a very tired Evan.
Some miles up we noticed Callie and Eric’s hammocks set up under a group of pines down a short steep path right off the trail. Chuck's property is right next to the GAP trail and sits on a hillside. There is a barn at the top of the property and a camper on a driveway separated by a lawn. Jeremy was already set up and in his tent next to the barn and Evan rolled down and set up around the corner from him. I was not about to get anymore wet in the cold rain so I leaned up against one of the pines and began to set up. Eric immediately objected but I was tired and ignored his grievance. He said I shouldn't have set up right ‘underneath’ him and Callie because I was cock blocking him. My unenlightened ass thought it was ridiculous that two people would have sex in a hammock so I continued to ignore Eric’s protests. See appendix for more on hammock sex. I was in a drier spot than Jeremy and Evan and that is all that mattered. The rain slowed and soon passed but the entire hillside was awfully damp and I chose to keep my tent under the pines for the evening.
I had been texting back and forth with Chuck since we had arrived in Cumberland that afternoon and at some point he had recommended a pizza place that would deliver to his property. I told the gang about the pizza and Eric responded with, “I will make the executive decision we get one pepperoni and one cheese”. I chose to stop ignoring him since I had ruined his romantic evening and placed the order from my tent. I got into my camp clothes to head down to the driveway. As I was walking down the hill I looked up to see Elon Musk’s Starlink satellites cruising across the sky in single file succession as they do. I tried to rouse the crew but I think only a couple of them made it out intime to see the spectral. A few minutes later the pizzas arrived and everyone gathered at the driveway to devour. I scorned Eric for eating a slice of the pepperoni pizza since adding the cheese pizza was his ‘Executive Decision’. Eric said he ordered it for Evan who had been vegetarian for years up to this trip. Evan was eating a slice of pepperoni. We retreated to our shelters for sleep.
Day 4 - One Step Forward and Two Steps Back
Frostburg Maryland to Stewart's Crossing Campground & Adirondack Shelters in Connellsville, Pennsylvania
76 Miles Planned Day 4 Planned Route
Tuesday September 19th
At some point in the ride Jeremy brought up Connellsville and the likelihood of camp crashing weirdos if we stayed there. The adirondack shelters I had in the itinerary are right behind a grocery store and last time we stopped, there was a constant flow of strange ones filing in and out of the parking lot and out back to the bike path where the shelters are. So we looked ahead on the map to the Round Bottom hiker-biker Campground. This would add an additional 10 miles to the day but the benefits outweighed the extra effort. We would also be 10 miles closer to Pittsburg making for a short day. So that was the plan when we set off that morning.
I shot a short video in the morning light filming Chuck’s property so he had an idea of what everything looked like since being gone for so long. We all skipped breakfast and packed up to head into Frostburg for a toilet and a bench to make breakfast. I carried the pizza boxes into town so we didn’t add to Chuck’s garbage that would have been susceptible to racoons. Chuck and his wife were out in Oregon and it was going to be more than a month before they returned. After a mile or so we arrived at the bottom of the town of Frostburg where there is a trailhead with a toilet and benches. The rest of the town is up a winding switchback so keep that in mind if you ever intend on stopping there for food. As we were warming up in the morning sun a lady pulled in the parking lot to walk her dog on the path. We struck up a conversion and played with Neo, her gray lab puppy.
After breakfast we mounted up and continued the accent to the Eastern Continental Divide. The first sign that you are approaching the top is the Mason & Dixon Line Marker. It’s a swath of monument resembling a sidewalk that slashes the trail diagonally following the exact border line between Maryland & Pennsylvania. It’s really nothing more than a photo opp, (and any enthusiastic fascination with the border is questionable once you have seen it), so I just rolled over the monument and cranked on.
I caught Evan at the lookout right before Big Savage Tunnel. This is always a great place to stop for the view. If you are coming up the hill from Maryland it is nice when the sun’s out and you know you are almost at the top because the ridge is not that much higher than the path at that point. It’s usually windy so it's a great place to whip out damp gear for drying. There are many benches along the lookout and I know I have had the place looking like a mountain covered with prayer flags before. If you are headed in the other direction descending from Deal, you probably have already stopped at the divide for the obligatory photo and you may be ready to just bomb the next 23 miles down to Cumberland. That being said it would be hard for anyone not to stop at the lookout after emerging from days in a tunnel like the GAP trail can resemble. Just stop. It’s almost the end of the Trail for the Southward bound so take a moment before your epic descent down into Cumberland.
Evan and I took off together after talking to a solo rider not in our group. When we got to the divide the rider took a picture for us in front of the little tunnel at the Eastern Continental Divide and we exchanged the favor. From the divide to Deal, the GAP trail is almost flat but after Deal you begin to descend and lose almost 400 feet over 8 miles before you make it to Meyersdale. This is probably one of the most remote parts of the ride. The expanse between the Big Savage Tunnel and Keystone Viaduct is a tract made up of rolling hills and ravines between the two giant walls of the Big Savage and another ridge just north and parallel to the Divide. It’s disctintly different land up there and a little hidden from the rest of the countryside. I have a little pipedream about moving there someday. You know, get a little piece of land along the trail like Chuck did. Maybe learn the name of the other ridge.
I think we stopped in Meyersdale for just a sec and then Evan and I rolled together the rest of the day. We were discussing whether or not to take a dip in our favorite little swimming spot. We were definitely ready for a bath but the temp had dipped a little and with the extra mileage we had planned for the day and the obligatory stop in Ohiopyle for a late lunch, we were not sure if it was the right move. We had over 40 miles before Ohiopyle, another 28 miles beyond that to camp. Realizing that I think discouraged us both from a dip in the frigid Casselman River. We agreed that if it was full sun as we approached the swimming spot we would stop and take a dip but if clouds were still rolling over we would skip it.
Evan and I took a couple of breaks along the way and decided Ohiopyle was just too far to wait to eat so we stopped in Rockwood at the Rock City Express gas station which is always a little trippy. The clerk was a grumbly guy wearing a t-shirt that was trying to mix the president's name with the pandemic, ensuing blame. Something like ‘Bivid-19’ with a picture of the politician but I wasn't about to inquire. Especially after he was ringing up another cyclist when she asked if she could add a banana to her tab and he belted out with, “I don’t care, do whatever you want!” Anyway the Rock City Express gas station is always a spectacle and for some reason we always end up stopping there, (probably because Husky Haven Campground, R.I.P., was right there).
8.5 miles after Rockwood we were crossing the Pinkerton low bridge and the sun just wasn't breaking though enough to entice us into the river. We peddled onto Ohiopyle. There is little to no reception in Ohiopyle and I knew Eric, Callie and Jeremy were either eating there somewhere or just finishing up. I headed right down to the Falls Market Inn and when I pulled up to the corner I realized I had lost Evan. I locked up my bike and was starving so I got in the line to order. A few minutes later Evan appeared to go in and use the ATM. He said the rest of the crew was up at the Ohiopyle House Cafe and I told him I was staying there to eat. As soon as he walked inside I realized how silly my stubbornness was and stepped out of line. Grabbed the bike and rode up to the group’s choice. I regretted my order as soon as I placed it. The line cook got the ticket and totally aloof to my presence exclaimed to the cashier that my order was the thing he hated most to make. Great! I am so excited for lunch now. I ate my fried shrimp tacos and nanchoed potatoes. As the group finished up we wandered out to the sun. Lunch was indeed mediocre at best so I recommend anyone passing though, eat at Falls Market Inn. I sat down in one of the many lounge chairs to digest. We all had our phones out looking at the next moves but mine was not receiving a signal so I just laid it down on the arm rest.
We got up to pack up and start off again as we still had almost 30 miles before camp. This is a great section of path following the Casselman River down to the confluence with the Youghiogheny River at Confluence, PA. The next 17 miles flew by. I believe Evan and Jeremy and I were riding together when we stopped by the Grocery in Connellsville. I elected to watch the bikes as they went inside to shop. I rummaged through my gear looking for my phone that wasn't in the normal pocket. We hadn't had reception for most of the day and especially at any of our stops so I wanted to check in with my wife but my phone was not there. Retracing my steps the last I could remember was sitting in the sun on the lounge chairs at the Ohiopyle House Cafe! Fuuuck! I must have been white as a ghost when the boys emerged from the Grocery store. Eric and Callie rolled up from the other entrance to hear the bad news about my phone. I used their phones to try to call the restaurant who wasn't answering. We called other businesses in Ohiopyle but they said the Ohiopyle House Cafe was often closing early and no one was willing to walk up the street for us to check for sure. I knew that my phone had to be at the restaurant or at the bathrooms along the trail in Ohiopyle. I had most likely set it down somewhere stupid and rode away. I tried using my friends' Uber and Lyft apps to no avail. Not a large bandwidth for ridesharing in the area. I went into the grocery store to find a taxi service. The customer service desk didn't know of any but we did find a service in a neighboring town. After minutes explaining where I was and where I wanted to go, the service quoted me $180 round trip and they could pick me up in 2-3 hours! Fuuck! So then I just said fuck it. I was going to ride back to Ohiopyle and asked the group if it would be ok if we stuck to the original plan and stay at the Stewart's Crossing Campground & Adirondack Shelters right behind Martin's Grocery. Everyone was fine with that and Eric immediately volunteered to ride back with me because he is a hero, and dumb.
We estimated the mileage at 15-18 and both fully knew we would be miles beyond a century when we returned. We had planned for 75 miles that day and we were going to add anywhere from 30-36. Man I felt dumb but this is why we have great friends. Eric is a glutton for punishment so I really wasn't surprised when he volunteered, (for the record I did not use the force to make him ride back to Ohiopyle with me). We stripped the luggage off our bikes and got on the path at a strong clip being propelled by some urgency of time. I didn't know if I had left my phone at the restaurant or the public restrooms and I was afraid that either had closed or were about to and our back track would be all for nothing. We got into a deep discussion tangenting from one topic to the next. It was a beautiful evening we were marveling at. That gratitude combined with the company made the hour go by quickly. We pulled into Ohiopyle and checked the bathrooms and then headed over to the Ohiopyle House Cafe which was in full swing! I approached the counter and asked the staff but they had no phones turned in. We rode over to the lounge chairs to check around and as soon as we walked up a group asked if we were looking for a phone! They had it! I had left it on the arm of the chair I was lounging in. They had been trying to use it to call one of the emergency contacts but I had not set any up on my phone. They could see that there was no reception so they thought it better to leave it near the scene and hope for a call to come through rather than turn it in. I am happy they did because the staff at the Ohiopyle House Cafe can barely answer their phone let alone handle custody of one in their lost and found. The group was really nice and loved the wedding picture of Tonya and I on my lock screen.
The joy of a successful mission filled my tank for the ride home but I was tired and did a lot of drafting Eric the 17 miles back to Stewart's Crossing Campground & Adirondack Shelters. Twilight hit fairly quickly into the ride and dusk followed as we arrived at Connellsville. We pulled in and rejoiced with the crew. I quickly set up my sleeping pad and sleeping bag under one of the shelters that Evan and Jeremy had claimed. I was tired and don't really remember the dinner situation but I do remember how quickly I went to sleep.
The moral of the story here is always check your surroundings before hopping on that bike.
You may not have enough daylight or friends dumb enough to add 34 miles to an already long day on the bike.
Being self-sufficient is essential for enjoying any tour. If you are leaning on someone else to provide the essentials for your ride, it’s not very likely you will be able to help out someone else who may need the support. The consequence of Self-sufficiency is not only can you take care of yourself, it leads to sharing and picking each other up when we need the support. Check your surroundings, Ride with great friends and have gratitude for it the whole way.
*Also I learned to always set the emergency contacts on your phone so if someone finds it they can try to reach one of those contacts. Further it’s probably a great idea to make all the folks you are riding with emergency contacts
Day 5 - Light at the End of the Tunnel, (GAP), Justin riding us through Pittsburgh and a New Path Day
Adirondack Shelters in Connellsville, Pennsylvania to Montour Trail Boggs Campsite, in Imperial Pennsylvania
80 Miles Planned Day 5 Planned Route
Wednesday September 20th
Next morning I was on a mission and strangely energized after the extra effort the night before. I ate breakfast from the Grocery store after refitting the bike with all the bags I had taken off the night before. It was 55 miles to the fountain in Pittsburgh which seemed like nothing much at all. Evan and I hopped on the bikes and started down the path. I was feeling pretty good and especially good because I knew Evan had been on the fence about going all the way back to Dayton and was considering cutting it short in Pittsburgh but now was leaning toward completing the ride.
20 miles in we all stopped at Cedar Creek Trekker Campground for a morning break. It had started out a little cold in Connellsville so it was time to shed some layers for the rest of the day. I think all of us were on edge with the anticipation to get to Pittsburgh. After a little while of verbally knocking each other down, flatulence, and snacking, we headed out toward civilization.
For the next 20 miles I kept my head down occasionally looking over my right shoulder at the shimmering Youghiogheny. The path turns into a mix of hardly noticeable rollers and you actually only descend 60ft but change elevation over 10x times that much.
As you come into Mckeesport, PA the GAP Trail dumps you off onto River Ridge road. Just take a left and eventually the bike path will reappear on the left side of the road. It follows Liberty Way up over the 15th street bridge and into town on the other side of the Youghiogheny river. In Mckeesport the path dumps you off onto 13th st. Take a left and then follow the curve onto Market St and head North. At Mary st. turn left and head down to the path North on Water St. When you come to the Mckees Point Trail Head turn right and continue to Locust St. where you turn Left. Follow Locust St. North and there is a trail head for the GAP and the Mckeesport Connecting Railroad Bridge. This is all marked but it’s still easy to get turned around.
Here is where I put the pedal to the metal and cranked through industrial complexes of railroad and factory the trail takes you though along the Monongahela River. Evan had reached out to Justin who lives in Pittsburgh to meet us on the path and this is the stretch he has met up with us before. Sure enough, just after pulling out of the Homestead Waterfront development area I ran into Justin. We stopped and waited for the rest of the crew who were just a minute or two behind. REI was a somewhat necessary stop to ‘literally’ refuel with new canisters for all of our stoves. Also nice to grab snacks and test your willpower with an impulse buy.
We really didn't talk immediately after it happened but there was this flamboyantly dressed cyclist standing over a monster of a hybrid bike outside the REI the entire time our crew was hanging in front of the place. The guy didn't move the entire time and just scanned our group though his reflector razor shades from his bike that was something between a Mod scooter and a giant tricycle with tassels. A total alien.
After REI we followed Justin to the fountain along paths on the South side of the Monongahela river until we came to cross the Smithfield St. Bridge over into downtown Pittsburgh. We headed north west though some downtown streets and into Point State Park where the fountain is.
After obligatory photoshoot at the fountain we considered a stop for food downtown but chose to press on out of town and onto territory we had never traveled before. Justin had a pretty good idea about how to get us in the right direction so we headed out of the north side of the park and over the Fort Duquesne Bridge and along the north shore riverfront park. At that point we were on the North Shore Trail and then the Chateau Trail which ends down river at the dead end of Westhall St. This is where we said our goodbyes to Justin and set out on our own.
From there we rode east to Preble Ave. took a quick right and then a left onto Ekert. As soon as you pass under the bridge veer left onto McClure Ave. following it up and around until you see Antrim St. on the left. Follow that doing a quick dog leg up the hill and then take a right on California Ave and continue ascending until you crest the hill. It’s about 220ft of elevation in 1 mile with most of it concentrated for .2 miles on Antrim. We continued down California Ave. a bit and at Brighton Heights Blvd took a left and got ready to cross the Mckees Rocks Bridge. It was busy but we were all together and held a lane in two groups as we crossed the bridge.
At the end of the bridge we took a right heading north onto Island Ave. which was a little busy but not as bad as the bridge. At Neville Road we crossed the bridge over to the deceptively long Neville Island and continued on the road. Neville eventually bends right and you intersect into Grand Ave. where you take a left and continue heading to the other side of the island. At the end, Grand road curves left and becomes the Coraopolis Bridge taking you back over the Ohio River. We took the side walk on the left/oncoming side over the bridge. On the other side of the bridge we followed 4th ave. to the left which eventually merged with and became State St.
Up the road was the AHN Montour Sports complex where we were able to ride across a field and get on the Montour Trail and head toward camp. *I found a more direct route to the trail after leaving Neville Island and made a little map of it here. For some reason there is a section of the GAP trail here and on GoogleMaps it does not connect with the Montour trail.
The Montour trail was a nice steady incline up to our camp, about 500ft up over 11.4 miles. The path was smooth, mostly crushed limestone interrupted by moments of concrete and flanked on both sides by thick tall walls of foliage. Even though it was a shorter day it was still a bit of a struggle getting up to camp for some of us. The campsite is simple with a big porta potty and no water or electricity. I knew about the lack of water so we asked Mr. Kelly Moore who would be joining the ride that evening to bring a bunch to the campsite. There was a shed shelter that I claimed a sleeping spot right away. I believe Kelly had gathered a bunch of firewood while waiting for us to arrive so we had an epic fire that evening and I took a really cool timelapse with all of us standing around it in our DV Jerseys. Except for Eric of course who had his shirt off.
Day 6 - Getting on the Highway with Bikes. Breakfast from a wholesome fry cook in a gritty diner. Gnarly Rolling Hills, and a Bath in the Lake and a Bed in the Pines
Montour Trail Boggs Campsite, in Imperial Pennsylvania to Leesville Lake South Fork Campground
72 Miles Planned Day 6 Planned Route
Thursday September 21th
I was confident that at least until we got to Steubenville it would be smooth sailing. Beyond the Ohio river until Fredericksburg, Ohio would be new paths and roads for us. I was sure of the direction but wasn't very confident of the quality of our route.
Woke up a little chilly that morning like most mornings on a tour. Kelly was already most of the way packed up by the time I opened my lids. He is probably the fastest at packing and unpacking in the whole bunch. It’s a common scene to have Kelly standing over us while we bubble around getting our shit together. It was great to have him join up with us and a lifesaver to bring gallons of water to the Montour Boggs Campground.
As we were all bumbling around getting our shit together Kelly did his classic ‘“well guys…” and started off to trailblaze the path for us. Jeremy and I found ourselves ready to hit it about a half hour later and Evan was a couple minutes behind us. I have know idea how long before Eric and Callie left the campground but I think that may have been one of the days Callie caught a flat and they were held up.
We headed off South continuing the Montour Boggs Trail until it t-boned the Panhandle Trail or that is what I thought. *As you approach the Panhandle Trail there is a split in the Montour Boggs Trail where you want to stay to your left to merge. If you go right you will continue on Montour Boggs and cross over the Panhandle on a bridge above it.
I remember a bit of euphoria setting in at this point marked in my mind by some smart remarks by Jermery responding to my words of gratitude. I believe it went something like this:
Me: “now this is the kind of riding I love”
Jeremy: “you mean riding downhill, with a tail wind, in the sun?”
Us: laughing
When first designing the route I missed detouring around a huge incline at the terminus of the Panhandle Trail. My original route had us hopping off the Panhandle at the Colliers parking lot about a 1000ft after the Ohio-Pennsylvania state line and then heading West on Pennsylvania Ave. and up over a 600ft foot plateau. To avoid the hill we continued on the Panhandle until it seemingly ended at a trail head near Harmon Creek Rd. After some very vague directions from a grouchy local sitting on the park bench we headed up to Harmon Creek Rd. crossed under Route 22 and followed Harmon Creek Rd. as it changed into Old US 22 and then Cove Rd and Then Main St. This brought us basically to an on ramp for US Route 22 and Route 2. The grouchy old man did tell us to take that ramp and stay to the right once we were on it. Jeremy and I looked at eachother confused but it didn't take long to continue with the odd directions and go up the on ramp. Sure enough at the top of the on ramp we could stay to the right and merge onto route 2 which ended up also feeling like a highway. It had a huge shoulder and it was downhill so it wasn't that bad with the tractor trailers Jake braking down the hill next to us. Toward the bottom of the hill was the welcome site of the Market Street Bridge which would take us over the Ohio and into Stubenville and hopefully to a decent meal. The bridge was hollow steel grating across the entirety and kind of a trip to look down at the Ohio river from that high up on that old of a structure.
Jeremy and I rode up and down 4th St. as that seemed to be where all of the restaurants were. At the South end of town was a farmers market. We were stalling a bit, kind of waiting for Evan to catch up. One of us had just spoken with him and confirmed, ‘Yes, take the Highway to Stubenville’ and ‘Turn Right at the big scary bridge’. We cruised back and forth for a bit longer, settling on a place that wasn't open yet. I thought about it and my first instinct was to check out Pee Dee’s down the street but on first passing it looked just to be a hole in the wall. And it was, but in the sense of the lion, the witch and wardrobe, a portal to another dimension hole in the wall. This place was a dump but the instant we sat down we felt warm and welcomed like the entire building was giving you a hug. It’s got some really good energy. Dee was the matriarch chef of the diner and just one of the most endearing people you could ever meet. She’s been there, done that, and has been trying to guess your sign from the first moment you walked in the door. “Cancer?” “Nope.” “Sagitarius?” “No, I am an Aquarius.” “See! That was my next guess!” Pee was a giant man who echoed Dee’s woes and whales in tender support like a smart husband would. Jeremy and I ordered. I ordered wrong. Should have gotten the stuffed pepper special, but my fried chicken sandwich was decent enough especially for being made from scratch. I think Jeremy ordered breakfast. Evan hobbled in the door and was confounded with a big dumb smile on is face like, ‘what the actual fuck is this place’, but was happy to sit down. He took my advice and ordered the special. Dee’ had been the first to the farmers market that morning and purchased the largest bell peppers the farmer had so the special was legit. We hung around charging our devices while Evan ate his meal. The entire time we were answering questions from Dee, Pee and the various townies dining there. Eventually They found out I was in the restaurant business and promised to visit me in Chicago someday. After a long goodbye we headed outside to get back on the bikes. Callie and Eric came rolling up to the front of Pee Dee’s and we sent them in to have their own journey.
On the way out of town we grabbed some fruit at the farmers market and got going. There were a few challenges ahead of us with some of the steepest climbs of the whole ride, unproven routes and riding on roads and now the sun beaming down on us as we rode into the afternoon. Basically the route weaved west through Wintersville, Belvedere, Bloomingdale, Hopedale following Route 22 but staying on the local roads. The steepest climb in this section was toward the beginning on Lovers Ln. The 3 of us stopped off at a coffee drive thru and chugged some large cold brews sitting in the shade under a tree.
At Hopedale the route took us north west toward Jewitt on country roads. There is a hidden fracking facility about half way there so we started seeing a good amount of industrial traffic on the roads but nothing that would make me change the route. In Jewitt we hopped on the Conotton Creek Trail and rode the entire length for 11 miles past Scio and Conotton and into Bowerston. From Bowerston to Leesville Lake there are a couple of access points. If you are trying to get to the campground I believe ours was the most direct route. We followed Penn Ave. North which turns into Autumn Rd. SW before dead ending into Deacon Rd. SW. We took a left here and followed Deacon North until it turned into Azalea Rd. SW. This section is only partially paved and quite the bone shaker with a steep descent on #8 limestone gravel. I think it rattled my bike so much that it actually ripped the webbing off of one of my Relavate Salt Rolls that was attached to my tri-bars. Azalea Rd. bends North East and shortly afterward Deer Rd. SW was on the Right which is the entrance to The Leesville Lake South Fork Camping Area.
You follow Deer Rd. SW up around the South end of a dam and the road eventually takes you through the campground. The first section is more of a permanent campground full of trailers but just beyond that is a quaint little primitive camping area with a section under pines. I believe it was $40 a site and the hosts welcomed us to use the facilities in the modern section of the campground where there were flushing toilets, hot running water and electricity. Eric and Callie set up on a different site and the hosts had to charge them another $40 but other than that everyone was pretty chill there. We bathed on a concrete boat launch and layed around in the late sun on a dock for a while. We made a little fire by the picnic table which illuminated the pine canopy above us. Eventually a truck pulled up with its headlight right on us. I couldn't tell if the guy got out or not but he let us know that we were camping in his favorite camping spot. After an awkward moment with us confirming with, “Yep it’s a nice one”, he drove off. It really is a nice campsite because the pine needle floor gives extra cushion and maybe even insulation.
*I recommend pine forest campsites but there are a few disclaimers: Sap is everywhere, and can be removed with rubbing alcohol; Just a heads up to those who have substantial ultralight investments, most of the wood is going to be sappy and will crack and pop sending tent searing meteors flying everywhere.
Day 7 - A Foggy Morning Lake, Best goddamn bakery in the middle of nowhere, Sickest touring single track in Ohio, Getting passed by Amish on E-bikes, Free Pizza and Sleeping in a Barn.
Leesville Lake South Fork Campground to Glenmont Trail Barn Bunkhouse
72 Miles Planned Day 7 Planned Route
Friday September 22th
Looking at this route it may seem like a long way as you can cut out 30 miles by heading directly west as the bird flies. The reason for this detour is trying to get as much bike path in as possible.
*When designing routes I use this hierarchy, #1 use as much bike path as possible; #2 avoid unnecessary elevation, (which by sticking to bike path you rarely encounter anything more than a 3% incline, so when planning routes you really only have to pay attention to #2 while touring on roads); #3 take the long way on side streets, local routes and country roads to avoid traffic. Following this hierarchy tends to take you off the beaten path, (of motor vehicles), and by default makes for more interesting rides. Case in point, if I would have followed the more direct route we would have ended up missing out on 2 of the coolest sections of bike path in Ohio.
As the sun rose, the lake and everything above it was opaque with a thick fog. It was another chilly morning and it wasn't long before we set out. From Leesville we headed out on country roads North West toward Zoarville, flanking the south side of Route 212 the first half of the way and the North side of 212 on the second half. We intersected 212 at New Cumberland and followed the country road up to Mineral City. On Google Maps the route we followed into Mineral City is 90 but I am sure the road signs said something different like New Cumberland Rd. Anyway about 2.5 miles out of Mineral City is a 240 ft. incline over 1 mile. What goes up must come down and the resulting descent was one of my favorites for the whole tour. There is a nice slalom just gentle enough I felt confident leaning into it and bombing. We all hit the bottom of the hill and detoured off the route to the right into Mineral City
Just inside town is Steineck's Donuts & Cakes. It was one of the best bakeries I had ever been to and it was full of a very unique variety of sweet and savory goods from cookies to pigs-in-a-blanket to doughnuts to pizza bread, Steineck's had it all. I think I spent about $3 and walked away with a couple of pounds of baked and fried dough and a styrofoam cup of black coffee. We all marveled at the carbo-gold we scored as we refueled our bellies and took obligatory photos in documentation of this confectionary oasis. There was also a Dollar General across the street and since I am on the ever ending search for a Original V8 juice I had to stop. We gathered in the parking lot of the dollar store and took turns pointing our fingers at Callie’s bike.
We headed South out of Mineral City toward Zoarville passing though it and over Tuscarawas River. Just beyond the river bridge on the right hand side of Route 212 is the Zoar Valley Towpath Trailhead and the beginning of a real fun joy ride! It’s a single track and for a decent section you hit these short rollers over a wooded flood plane next to the river. The trail is not to be missed if you happen to be in the area *That is unless there has been a lot of rain. I can see how the gullies on the path could get flooded and create more trouble than it's worth.
The trail empties out into Fort Laurens Museum Park just south of Bolivar. We stopped there to use the facilities and I called Tonya to check in with her for the day so she knew I was still alive. We rode to the North side of town and picked up the bike path. The trailhead is where Bolivar St. NW and Laydne Ave. NW deadend into each other and if you are headed Northwest up Bolivar St. NW it basically turns into the towpath.
From there the towpath takes you along the Tuscarawas River up to Navarre where it hugs the bottom of the town in a semicircle like an interstate bypass. We stopped just short of Main St. and regrouped before heading out onto country roads. This was the northernmost point in the detour and now we just need to head west to Fredericksburg to pick up the path again. From trailhead to trailhead it is 23 miles of almost traffic-less country roads over rolling hills. My route took us Southwest though Wilmot where we re-grouped again and refueled at a gas station. From there we headed West and occasionally North until we reached Route 109 is a straight shot with a couple of 100ft hills in the middle. The entire section of road is about 1100 ft up and 1050 ft down and the Mennonite community has fully embraced the E-Bike as a means for conquering the endless rollers in every direction. It’s a common sight in this area to be huffing it up a steep incline while someone who looks like they are dressed for the set of Little House on the Prairie, cushes past you up the hill effortlessly sitting on their orthopedic saddles.
Callie had a funny story about it. Pretty boy Eric was riding shirtless, which, if you know him, is redundant for me to mention. Anyway Callie was riding up a hill behind him and coming down the other side of the hill was a young maiden whose eyes may have not been exposed to such a display of sculpted human flesh that is Eric’s naked torso. As they passed each other Callie watched the Girl turn her neck to continue her ocular indulgence which caused her to begin veering across the highway headed directly into Callie. She’ll have a better recollection of the details but I think she may have had to exclaim something like “Hey Lady!” to get the Girl to correct her course.
Once you roll into Fredericksburg it’s smooth sailing down a gentle grade on a wide path where the biggest problem is dodging piles of horse shit. This section of the OTET is a shared path for buggies and bikes so it is as wide as any country road but off limits to cars. It cuts through field after field under a canopy of trees with some bare sections. Our final destination in Glenmont was only 24 miles away and as I mentioned before, pretty smooth sailing. After passing though Millersburg pay attention because hidden behind a swath of trees 1.5 miles down on the left hand side is a Super Walmart. Big deal right? Trust me you don't want to miss this one and you don’t even have to go inside. This is buggy country and at this Walmart there is a 200ft long covered parking for horse and buggy. The shelter is a bit of a barn itself complete with barn cats liking milk from bowls and a random duck walking around like it was in charge of the place. It is a compelling display of the juxtaposition of religious extremist dabbling in consumer culture. I cannot imagine a place where that contrast is more vividly illustrated than in a Walmart parking lot.
From there It’s entirely the shared buggy path all the way to Kilbuck where you ride South into town and take a Right on Front St. and take that West until it dead ends into Route 520. We took a right there and headed up the gentle hill eventually veering West again. You stay on 520 all the way to Glenmont passing though a little valley on the quiet country road.
I had rented what is called the Glenmont Trail Barn Bunkhouse booked on AirBnb. It ended up being one of the most fun nights because of the little barn we slept in and its host. First of all and full disclaimer this rental is basically like sleeping outside under a shelter but Tom the host has outfitted the entire thing with people riding or hiking the OTET in mind. He is actually the trail steward for the area and does a lot of the maintenance to keep the path clear. Tom actually found the barn in shambles and lifted it and rebuilt it adding an electrical service. Eventough some of the barn wood had 1” gaps between it there was a refrigerator and a microwave on a dry floor. There were some cots and a couple old couches and cushioned chairs and a couple other dining chairs. Tom had filled the refrigerator with massive packs of bottled water and sports drinks and there were bags of snacks all over the place. We settled in, Kelly, Jeremy Evan and myself in the barn; Callie and Eric off in the field somewhere. Tom eventually showed up to introduce himself. He asked if we needed anything and even though we said we're all set he said he was going into town to grab a pizza he needed help eating. Not an hour later he returned with an entire pizza he wouldn't take money for and a bunch of Snickers he said that he buys for pennies on the dollar at a food thrift nearby.
Tom explained plans for the towpath to be extended right behind his property that the Bunkhouse was on and as he waved his hand across the field you could just make out the ruined levy that the old railroad was on. He said at some point the old railroad would be completely converted to a path all the way back to Kilbuck.
In Glenmount there is a natural spring that has been piped up to a concrete table basin for cleaning and washing things. We had discussed getting cleaned up there that evening but by the time we ate and it was dark a cold springwater bath didn’t sound very appealing. I mentioned before that this area is a little bit of a valley so the sun disappears first over the ridges and in the colder months things can chill off quickly. Jeremy and I slept on cots, Kelly on one of the couches and Evan on his pad on the floor. Jeremy mentioned inflating our pads for insulation but I shot his idea down like a fool. I think the bunkhouse gave me a false sense that I would be warm that night and boy was I wrong. I usually toss and turn all night wherever I sleep and especially when camping. I figured this night would be one of the best of the entire trip having a cot in a shelter but in just a couple hours I had to sit straight up and figure out a warmer situation. Instead of inflating anything which would have been loud and it was very dark I ripped some cushions off the empty couch and layed those on my cot. At one point in the night I remember Evan getting up like me but I knew he wasn't cold because of how insulated his sleeping bag is. Evan eventually got up and moved outside onto the porch and my sleepy brain rationalized that by assuming that his bag was too warm and needed to move out of the barn to regulate the excessive insulation. Jeremy asked where he went and that is what I told him. I would learn the next morning in an explosion of Jeremey’s gut busting laughter, (which is the best kind and contagious), that my assumption was incorrect.
I would definitely recommend stopping in Glenmont and staying at Tom’s Trail Barn Bunkhouse if you need a place to stay or at least check out the natural spring if you are just passing through for a moment.
Day 8 - A cold start to a long day, The Journey Starting to Sink In, Autumnal shift, Unexpected outdoor palace for the final night and another pizza delivery
Glenmont Trail Barn Bunkhouse to Little Darby Outdoors hosted by Jay H. on HipCamp
94 Miles Planned Day 8 Planned Route
Saturday September 23th
We woke up frigid that morning and it would be a long time before the sun peeked over the ridge to warm the valley. Apparently Kelly, Jeremy and myself were all snoring in unison all night long. After many hours of Evan listening to the 3 of us snort and grunt our way through sleep he left the barn to get at least a few moments of peaceful rest. We learned this the next morning when he came in, visibly disgusted with us. I asked if he moved out because he was too warm and when he belted back with how stupid loud our snoring ensemble was and just when he thought one of us would stop the other would kick in with their snoring. You had to be there but this made Jeremy and I laugh so hard we almost were rolling on the floor. As we packed up Jeremy and myself had a few more bursts of guttural laughter which helped to warm things up but also delayed our departure.
After pulling away from the barn we cruised through Glenmont and over to the Natural Spring. It’s a historic landmark that I happened upon when planning the route. We stopped for a brief moment to inspect the water trough then pushed on. This would be the longest day of the ride and, fortunately, we were back to familiar routes and the OTET bike path.
The morning stayed brisk later than normal and after 13 miles, the path opened up into Danville where it was interrupted by city streets. I stopped to relieve myself at a large porta potty. Much of the crew rolled up and we chose to hang for a minute to refuel but that time flew by with some interesting spectacles. Right across from where we were sitting a family was tending to what seemed to be some kind of permanent yard sale. Then I struck up a conversation with a mennonite guy that has done more extensive long haul bike path touring than anyone I have ever talked to, all in hand made farm clothes and on a hybrid bike with 2 rear panniers.
We made our way through town to pick up the OTET and rode another 15 miles to Mt. Vernon where Evan and I stopped for coffee and snacks. We settled for the Happy Bean Coffee Shop which was sufficiently stocked with caffeine, pastry, and friendly small town baristas. I remember this was the point for me when It began to hit me how far we had come. Evan talked about his triumph with continuing the ride and how grateful he was for sticking with it. Even though it was full sun, the day had a slight autumn tint and chill. After we walked out of the coffee shop the air hit me sending a little shiver through my core. Peddling out of town re-lit our calorie furnace and the chill quickly subsided.
The next 23 miles of OTET takes you through Bangs, Mt. Liberty, Centerburg before being interrupted by Sunbury, Ohio. A couple miles before we hit town Evan and I were really moving along at a clip when we came up on a very square looking couple on hybrids with pedal assist. They were also moving fast but we overtook them on the left side of the path letting them know we were passing with bells and the customary ‘on your left’. As we slowed into town they flew by us visibly irritated. I definitely got an off duty cop and wife Karen vibe from the couple as they scoffed at us. Nothing more came of the interaction but for some reason the moment stuck with me. I imagined them ruining some poor waitress’ shift after leaving church the next morning. I imagined the pent up hatred they have for each other being their strongest bond as they go around and take it out on the good people of the world. I guess it just seems like such an oxymoron to see people be so angry for no reason and especially while they are riding bikes. I get so much joy from riding that it is exhausting for me to fathom living such a juxtaposition. I am not justifying my thoughts, but my misunderstanding is probably how I can be so fantastically judgmental of two people who were probably just having a bad day. Riding 101, be happy!
In Sunbury the OTET ends at Cherry St. take a right and follow that to the next intersection at Morning St. Take a left and follow Morning St. until it dead ends into Stone St. where you can pick the OTET back up.
Sunbury sits on the Northside of Columbus. From here you turn almost directly south on the OTET. It is a solid 27 miles From Sunbury to the Short North district in Columbus. A short stint on the path from Sunbury, you hit Galena, where the path brings alongside the picturesque shore of Hoover reservoir. About 5 miles down in Westerville, OH the path intersects with Northgate Way and the area becomes distinctly suburban. *If you are in need of a bike cleaning there is a self serve car wash as you follow Northgate Way around to Maxton Rd. Actually there is also a Trek bike store, Kroger grocery store and Home Depot all right there.
The path gets a little wonky here but I believe we took the most direct route into town. Whether or not it is officially Ohio to Erie Trail, (OTET) I am not sure. We cross over Northgate Way turning left onto the sidewalk path and following it down to Maxton Rd. There you take a right and head down the sidewalk/bike path before taking the cross walk over Maxton and onto the bike path. The path veers off to the Left from the road and slowly turns back South. We met another rider and started up a conversation. He was from the area and offered to guide us down to the Alum Creek Trail. Just 2 miles down we stopped at Hanby Park because Callie and Eric were there. This was a nice place to lay around in the sun, rest and refuel. Evan, Callie and Eric were drying a bunch of camping gear in the yard there. The park has a really nice set up of private bathrooms and water fountains connected to a huge shelter with plenty of seating.
We had traveled 60 miles that day and it was well into the afternoon so Evan and I pushed on to make a stop in the Short North District of Columbus at Brassica on High St. I had never been there before but it came highly recommended and when I found out the cuisine was basically a Lebanese restaurant set up like a Chipotle, I was sold! A short way up we crossed over State St. and picked the path back up continuing South. The path makes a bend West and crosses a boulevard called County Line Schrock Trail where you turn Left and then Right onto W. Schrock Rd. Follow that down the hill just short of a half mile. The Alum Creek Trail entrance is on the North side of Schrock and hopping up on the sidewalk is necessary to connect to the path. Take the path entrance down about a 1/10th of a mile and make a hard left to follow the Alum Creek Trail South. It’s a great section of suburban bike path flanking the creek all the way into town. It is very curvy with several bridges and mostly wooded. Evan and I continued for 11 miles before taking a detour into town at Hayden Park. There is a bike path connector there that shoots West for a short bit before dumping us off onto Leonard Ave. in West Columbus. We followed Leonard which turns into 5th Ave. all the way to High St. Brassica was just South of there and both of us were famished. I offered to take the first shift watching the bikes while Evan went inside to get food. I took the moment to call my lovely wife and let her know we had made it to Cbus.
Brassica was great but mostly because I was hungry. We parked in the back at the patio you can access from an alley. I pulled the trigger on having a beer with lunch even though I knew it would slow me down for the rest of the ride. It was a sort of an award to myself for making it this far and I rarely feel like drinking a beer. I over ordered but had a great idea to ask them for an extra pita which I filled with all of my leftovers. I think the manager or owner asked me about our ride and was delighted we chose to refuel there.
Evan and I headed South on High St. riding underneath the highway overpass to Spring St. where we took a left. Directly ahead on Spring St. is the North Bank Park along the Scioto River. There you can pick the Scioto Trail. A little way down the path the Scioto dead ends into the Olentangy Trail. You want to go left here. We went right and after a 1/10th of a mile realized the mistake and turned back. Taking a left there keeps you on the Scioto which is the direction we needed to head. You cross over the river twice when you come to a ramp where you double back down to the river. Right before going under the I-70 Interstate bridge you should take the off path exiting the Scioto Trail. Evan and I missed that turn off and ended up staying on the Scioto Trail for an extra mile or so before realizing the mistake. At Dublin Rd. we turned back toward the river and went back under the overpass and found the off path.
The off path takes you immediately back across the Scioto River and crosses Mckinley Ave. following Harper Rd. After crossing the railroad tracks, Harper Rd. makes a dog leg turn changing into Valleyview Dr. Five blocks down you make a left on Eureka Ave. and the Camp Chase Trail trailhead is just down on the right.
I had booked something called the Little Darby Outdoors on HipCamp which I thought was just going to be a field for us to pitch tents in. We had 12 miles left in the day and after a beer and several wrong turns I was ready to finish it. The long straight path out in Western Ohio can get pretty tedious when you just want to end the ride and between here and Dayton the path is about as boring as it can get.
The Camp Chase Trail takes you South West through Wilson Road Park. Shortly after the Park the path intersects with Georgesville Rd. Take a left there and then a Right onto Sullivant Rd. about 1000 ft down. Follow Sullivant for the same distance and the Camp Chase Trail will be on your Left.
With the exception of a few country roads the OTET is uninterrupted for the next 5 miles bringing you into Battelle Darby Creek Metro Park. The OTET flanks along the North edge of the park. It is not very well marked so we just stayed to the Right at every junction which eventually brought us to the Big Darby Creek and under the railroad bridge. The path curves Right and there and finishes with a dirty little hill to pump up. At the top of the hill you spill out of the woods into a Cul de sac and parking area. Kelly, Jeremy, Callie and Eric were waiting on us here. We hung out for a bit while Eric and Callie were out getting a few more miles in to ensure they rode a century that day.
Once they returned we grouped and went over the directions out to this property I booked for us. Jay H. was the host I had booked with. We had communicated weeks before and he asked me to text him when we were ½ hour out and he would meet us there. The listing just says 13 acres to choose from but I had a hunch there would be a little more accommodation. Weeks before I had asked Jay about a bar down the road while scouting for food options that night. He confessed “I have a microwave, hot water pot and a bbq grill here. Picnic supplies etc. condiments”. Jay is a gracious host, and very humble as he gave no inkling to what laid in store for us that evening.
We pedaled North up Gardner Rd. for a bit. For the sake of the hosts privacy I won't publish his address here but you can find Jay H. on hipcamp https://www.hipcamp.com/en-US/land/ohio-little-darby-outdoors-9mxh08wj/sites/764384?siteId=764384&adults=1&children=0
We peddled down his driveway next to a line of pines that was an egress past the road side properties. It emptied out into a gravel parking area before a large house with a wrap around front porch and a large detached garage. We pulled right up on Jay chatting with a couple also staying on the property. I introduced myself and Jay began to show us around the property. He pointed out the hot shower and bathrooms we could use and all of the picnic supplies we could help ourselves to. There was an additional roofed deck behind the house looking out over the Little Darby Valley. Jay said we could just set up on the deck, we didn't have to set up in the grass. The house was actually completely open air with large plastic curtains that could be rolled down in the winter. It had electricity and was very well built. I asked Jay about it. I guess the house had been totaled in a fire and instead of rebuilding a normal house Jay opted to build an outdoor palace so he could host family and friends and the occasional passersby. The foundation had been salvaged and rebuilt upon so when you walk into the house there is a large open loft down into the basement connected by a combination staircase. The basement had a ping pong table and maybe even an air hockey table but definitely a disco ball complete with lights.
We all set up shelters on the deck with the exception of Kelly who set up in the field. While we were getting everything set up we took turns showering in Jay’s awesome party house. The shower was plumbed with multiple shower outlets, one poured into a watering can that showered right over your head. The entire space was way more shabby than chic and definitely gave off Home Depot shopping spree vibes.
We got Jay’s recommendation for pizza and ordered up a large pie and some apps. I totally forgot about my leftovers from brassica and indulged in the hot food. We coaxed a reluctant Jay into sharing a slice with us. He mentioned that his daughter may be arriving later in the evening. He asked her to bring some pancake mix and subtly hinted that there may be flapjacks in the morning.
We sat there snaking from the pile of calories we had accumulated. Someone unplugged the miles of rope lighting that illuminated the house and we retired one by one as night fully set in. Sometime that evening Jay's daughter had pulled into camp for the night.
Day 9 - Surprise breakfast, No nonsense draft on the most boring path, Barefoot at a Sunoco, That last neverending stretch, Sabering a champagne bottle at Press
Little Darby Outdoors hosted by Jay H. on HipCamp to Dayton, Ohio
63 Miles Planned Day 9 Planned Route
Saturday September 24th
As Jay discreetly hinted the evening before he had set up his propane griddle and offered us breakfast as we packed up. He was going to close up the house for the winter so he had us all set up with flapjacks and said to not be shy about how many of the picnic supplies we used. He also had a pot of Folgers going that I think we may have brewed a couple of times. We documented the morning with a group photo in the house. As we rolled our bikes off the porch deck we said our goodbyes to Jay. I slipped him a little extra cash tip for all his hospitality and we all mounted up and cruised down the driveway and back to the OTET.
This day’s entry is going to be short because the day was short and we rode it fast. I have mentioned before that this is also the most boring section of the path. It’s a straight shot as the bird flies following the right away between Columbus and Xenia, Ohio. From where we got back on the OTET/Camp Chase Trail at Georgesville, we stayed pretty close together as a pack and even after getting a little spread out we regrouped 12 miles in at London.
After shopping for a little more food for the day, we ate our snacks in the sun on the backside of a Sunoco gas station. Callie was walking around barefooted… Behind the Sunoco gas station… London, Ohio… I don't know why this is funny to me.
Evan, Jeremey and I took off before Eric and Callie. After riding in no particular formation for a mile or so before Evan took the lead in a draft. We rotated the leader after slowing down at each road crossing. We kept pushing faster and faster at each rotation partly to alleviate the boredom of the undeviating path and partly in anticipation to finish. The 3 of us crushed forward past South Charlston and Cedarville before slowing down outside Xenia. I don't think any of us knew how many watts we were burning but when we slowed down I felt all of my energy drain.
I think it was in Xenia when Jeremey confessed that he would be breaking off at Beavercreek station to go directly home. I don't remember if we even paused in Xenia. The 3 of us bumped fists as we approached Beavercreek exchanging gratitude for this epic journey together.
Evan and I pressed on into the little head wind that always seems to be in this section of the path. This is home territory and neither of us can count the amount of times we have traversed this section of path. Like most of the section of the OTET between Columbus and Dayton it is a boring straight path that's best attribute is the directness between point A and B.
There was talk about hopping Linden Ave. to finish the route downtown but I think we opted for the bike path and ended up turning right at the deadend to stay on the Creekside Trail heading North to Eastwood MetroPark and the river corridor. I think there may have been a tail wind at this point because any resistance in the river corridor is punishingly noticeable and I think I would have remembered it. Instead I remember feeling like a champ and racing into downtown, whimsically pulling up to Press.
I had texted Brett asking him to have a bottle chilled for sabering. He compiled and even provided an actual wine saber for the event. It took two swings and the bottle top shot off as Evan stood there watching me in his own delirium of climax and conclusion.
Callie, Eric & Kelly all eventually pulled up in that order, correct me if I am wrong. Some of us partook in the sparkling wine as we all basked around in a kaleidoscope of physical and emotional achievement met with a humdrum climax and ravenous hunger.
That's it… that’s the end… 700 miles give or take a couple in 9 days mostly on the National Rails to Trails Conservancy, Great America Trail, from Washington D.C. to Dayton Ohio.
Conclusion:
In conclusion, I want to hit some points that I think are worth pointing out.
Planning Accuracy:
The commute on the train was easy and relaxing with no delays. The conductor that helped me get my bike off the train told me next time I have to remove all my bags from the bike before checking it.
The entire tour route seemed to be accurate with very few detours. Our route leaving Pittsburgh was almost flawless and with a quick reroute after leaving Neville Island it will be perfect.
Entering Steubenville Ohio could take some re-working. Cartographically, and Kelly confirming the difficulty of the climb up to the ridge between the end of the bike path and the river, you basically have to decide between, elevation or riding on the highway to get across the Ohio River.
Between Stubenville and Fredericksburg was great and even resulted in some really cool paths and an incredible bakery out of pure happenstance. The route leaving Columbus was accurate but I made a couple of wrong turns which I would pay more attention to next time.
The weather was perfect beside the one day of rain so we nailed the dates between storms. The ride started off with a perfect day followed by a rain day, then a muddy day that ended with a light rain. The next couple days were noticeably autumnal, sunny with sporadic cumulus clouds threatening a little rain but only threatening. After crossing the Ohio River, the clouds burnt off but the Autumnal shift persisted to the end of the ride. Wind was never a major adversary and sometimes proved to be an ally while following the right away across western Ohio to the finish.
Self Sufficiency Report:
Luggage
I rotated through 3 pairs of bibs this ride and 2 would have been fine even after 10 days. Same with socks, I bought 3 pairs of liners, and 3 pairs of wooly socks, (I even lost my wolliest pair), and that could have been reduced, (was reduced), by only bringing wooly socks and leaving the liners at home.
I brought a liner sleeping bag that I didn't remember I had until the end of the ride. I definitely could have used it a couple of those nights, but I forgot it was there so I may as well forget it next time. That being said, I would like to bring a more insulated bag when we do these tours so I am going to figure out how to bring my 0º in 24’.
I was on the fence about bringing the Opinel Nomade Kit, but I chose to bring it because it was worth the experiment. I only used it a couple of times. The board and rag were nice to have but I barely used the peeler, the serrated knife and never the corkscrew which is all very bulky for my style of packing. I think the kit is better suited for cargo bike touring.
Physical Toll
The worst thing that happened to me during the ride was my middle right toe hurting after riding sockless for 2 days. After putting socks back on and massage, my toe was fine the rest of the ride. I did get my right foot X-rayed and had a podiatrist take a look to figure out what was causing pain behind my big toe. That revealed 2 bone spurs, a bunion and multiple points of arthritis. The doctor assured me this was all from improper footwear and flat feet which confirms why they never feel bad after rides like they do after being on them for extended periods of time.
Originally I had planned to ride all the way back to Chicago but my mind talked me out of it justifying the cancellation by coming up with a story about a hierarchy I follow when planning and riding routes. If 3 red flags hit, I don't go on the ride. The 1st red flag is that riding distances alone is dangerous if you get into trouble. 2nd is riding on roads vs paths. Roads are infinitely more dangerous than bike paths. 3rd is inclement weather. All 3 were bound to be a part of the next 3 days and riding that 300 more miles alone would have been more strenuous than dangerous.
Anyway I opted out in exchange for Tonya driving to Dayton and then us going to Cincinnati to party with friends there the next day. She really enjoyed coming to ‘rescue’ me and we made a mini vacation out of it.
Appendix
I promised more on hammock sex and this is probably obvious to most but here it goes… Only one person is in the hammock during hammock sex, and I don't know why my imagination failed me so badly that I needed Jeremy to explain it to me. The hammock is acting as a swing that the standing individual controls while the other lays in the swing. My naivety, and desire to stay dry, did indeed ruin Eric and Callie’s rendezvous one evening. I think it is worth pointing out that hammock sex is a thing and you should respect the space of young lovers who choose to hang at night. And now, Callie bringing her strap-on along for a 700 mile bike ride makes perfect sense.